- HUNTING DECOYS
- PAPER Archery Targets
- BLOCK, BAG, RANGE
- SCHOOL/Round Targets
- BEAR 3D Archery Targets
- BIGGAME Archery Targets
- BOAR 3D Foam Targets
- DEER 3D Archery Targets
- EXOTICS 3D Targets
- PREDATOR 3D's
- SAFARI 3D targets
- SHEEP / GOAT Targets
- TURKEY Archery Targets
- VARMINTS Foam Targets
- Replacement Core Insert.
- Displayed Archery Target
Bow shooting Tips, Form
You should always take a few lessons at your local archery shop or range. Its a good idea even if you have been shooting for years and your just cracking that bow out to get tuned up for the huntiing season. So have some fun trying some of these tips and see if they help improve your shot groupings. The information below comes from people that I have shot with and research I have done on the internet. The main thing I have learned is that you need to be able to repeat the same steps ever time to be consistantly in the kill zone. These steps should give you a base to work from when creating your form. Always remember safty first!!!
The shot can be broken down into a few key areas.
Stance, Draw, Aiming, Release, Mental Attitude.
Your shoulders should be parallel to the ground both should be the same heigth from the ground, Don't roll your bow arm shoulder forward. Your aiming eye should be directly over your belt buckle. Your head should be centered over your hips with your feet separated about shoulder width. Hips should be centered over your feet, shoulders should be centered over your hips. This will give you a nice square relaxed posture and I know you can all hear your MOM about now telling you to stand up staight.
There are 3 basic foot positions that most archers use when shooting in 3D competions in-line, open, and closed. Lay an arrow on the ground pointing straight at the target creating a line to that target.
Having both toes touching the arrow/line the front foot at 12 o'clock and the back foot at 6 o'clock would be in-line with the target.
Having the front foot at 11 o'clock and the back foot at 6 o'clock would be an open stance by 15 degrees.
Having the front foot at 12 o'clock and the back foot at 7 o'clock would be a closed stance by 15 degrees.
I use an open stance and it seems to be the most natual for me and there is evidence that it has to do with shoulder sockit position.
Stand about 20 yards away from from the target and use an inline stance with both feet touching the arrow pointing at the target. Look down at your feet and close your eyes, draw your bow and set your normal anchor point just like your ready to take the shot. Open your eyes, most shooters are usually off to the right. What this proves is that our natural body position at full draw, should dictate where our feet should be. Move your feet to where your natural body position is most comfortable. Some also claim that an open stance will reduce arm slap from the bow string.
*** This is also a good test to check your peep sight location to determine if it should be moved up or down. ***
It is important to relax your bow hand. You should have pressure on the heel of your hand near the base of your thumb. This puts the pressure on the wrist bones and reduces muscle tension. A bow sling can be used so you do not grab the bow.
Bow Arm Position:
Your Shoulder should be relaxed & locked in the shoulder joint. The bow weight should be held by the bones instead of the muscles, BOW HANDLE TO WRIST BONES AND UPPER ARM BONE INTO THE SHOULDER SOCKET. Don't bend the elbow or it will recruit muscle to hold it. The inside of the elbow should be vertical to the ground, this also reduces bow string slap comapred to an elbow with the inside of the joint facing up.
An anchor is the draw or string hand location when the string is released. It can be almost anywhere as long as it is consistantly in the same location for every shot. Most Anchors are near or along the jaw line and should have multiple points of contact. A common one I see used alot is to have the string hand behind the jaw bone and the string touching the nose. I put the back of the jaw bone between the knuckles of the index and middle fingers.
The draw arm:
The wrist, Forearm, and elbow should be a continuation of the arrow and all should be a straight line to the target. Bend your body at the waist to shoot up or down hill.
Most newer hunting sights come with 5 or 7 pins and it is mounted to the front of the bow near the handle. If you haven't bought a sight yet there is a difference in what class you will shoot in if you ever do a 3D shoot. The pins have a round gaurd and fiber optic lighting for the pins is now standard. Most have the ability to add a small light kit for shooting at dusk or dawn. In the string above the noching point will be the peep sight with a small hole in it. The idea is to look through the peep sight hole and line it up with the outer round pin gaurd of the site mounted at the front of the bow. Then focus your eye on the target point and bring the pin to the target. A common mistake is to focus on the pin and not the target.
Since the quick realease has become popular most of the issues found with fingers have been eliminated. There is normally a D-Loop added to the string. This D-Loop provides a noching point for the arrow, the odd colored feather or vane should go up. The quick release is clipped to the D-Lopp and pulled back having your finger behind the trigger to prevent a miss fire. The crease in the trigger finger should be used and not the pad of the finger tip. I like to exhale prior to squeezing the trigger this seems to relax or steady my site picture. My follow through is to hold until I see or hear the arrow hit its mark.
MENTAL ATTITUDE --
This is over look by a lot of people in competions and it normally comes to play when you start to get tired, feel the stress of competion or a 1000 other reasons. Turn the Cell phone off and focus on shooting your form and you you quickly start to move up in the ranks. Good luck and have a great day at the range.